The Russian Manicure, unlike the French Manicure, isn’t a manicure style but a grooming technique. Also known as an e-file manicure or a combination manicure, it is a dry manicure that works on the ‘clean aesthetic’ fundamental. It is a nail care technique to achieve well-groomed and squeaky-clean nails without soaking them in water.
Originating in Russia, the Russian Manicure gets its name from the multi-step procedure done by Russian nail technicians for several years now. It has now emerged as a nail trend focused on improving the health of natural nails using precision and attention to detail in its procedure. It is an intricate process that uses an electric nail file or nail drill for nail shaping and cuticle care. The e-file cleans the skin around the nail bed by removing the excess dead cells and debris. It also helps in gently filing and buffing the nails as a part of the manicure.
The Russian manicure is known for providing long-lasting manicures that last for around 4-5 weeks or even more. It also promises to promote healthy growth of the natural nails to make them strong and thick, and many professional nail techs around the world have seen better results. The reason is simply its commitment to precision and accuracy and its obsession with ‘clean aesthetics’. It emphasizes complete and precise cuticle removal, careful and accurate removal of previous products, and attention to a pristine product application.
The E-File Nail Drill
An electric nail drill, also known as an e-file is an electronic tool used by professionals for dry manicures. It is a rotary tool designed with a motor, a handpiece, and a set of drill bits. Nails techs use it for everything – from prepping your nails for enhancements to removing your acrylic extensions. The e-file is primarily used for shaping and smoothening the nails and enhancements as well as buffing the nail surface and creating a ridge-free space to work on.
Simply put, an e-file is an electric tool meant to reduce the physical exertion of the nail technicians in doing a dry manicure. They don’t have to sit for hours exercising their elbows with handheld nail files and buffers as their work is reduced by this device. It also ensures an even output if used correctly and with proper knowledge and training.
For doing a particular task, a nail tech will require ‘drill bits’ to be used with the e-file. These are nothing but tips to be attached to the drill for serving various purposes.
Drill Bits
Drill bits come in various shapes, sizes, materials, and grits. The three main types of bits of different materials are:
1) Carbide Bits:
These are made of a metal stronger than steel and durable. They are used for shaving off layers from acrylic and gel enhancements to cut and shape them.
2) Ceramic Bits
These are also very durable just like carbide bits and are also used for similar purposes. But the good thing about ceramic bits is that they help in reducing the heat generated by the e-file.
3) Diamond Bits
These are used for scratching off, instead of shaving, the nail surface to remove product buildup and residue.
Similarly, there are three main shapes of these bits serving different purposes:
4) Natural Bits
These are meant for the cuticles and the nail bed. They remove dead skin from the cuticles and buff the surface of the nail smooth.
5) Cone Bits
These are designed to be thin and small to reach small spaces like the area underneath the nail.
6) Barrel Bits
These are in many shapes and sizes serving many purposes like shaping the nails, shortening the length, or working on the nail surface.
9-Piece Set of Drill Bits
This is an ideal set of bits for any professional nail tech using an e-file.
Ball Bit: To prep the sidewalls and clean under the nails.
Flame Bit: To clean the area around the cuticle and to create an apex.
Safety Bit: To shorten the nails and to infill and backfill the cuticle work.
Cylinder Bit: To remove the side grooves and remove the shine from the nail surface.
Nib Bit: To lift the delicate cuticles and remove the hangnails.
Needle Bit: To file the cuticles and work on hard-to-reach areas under the nails and sidewalls.
Micro Ball Bit: To safely and gently clean the cuticles by removing the dead skin and to make the nails clean.
Silicon Bit: To polish the nail surface and make it smooth.
Cleaning Bit: A brush-like bit to clean the nail surface and other drill bits.
E-File vs Manual File
It is a personal choice whether to use the e-file or the manual nail files in your manicure. Both work the same and give pretty similar results if used correctly. However, professional nail techs prefer e-files over manual ones as they save a lot of time and effort. Since it is an electronic instrument, it is easy to control the pressure and the speed of filing the nails using the switches and controls. But, it requires time to master using an e-file and so much practice to become efficient. E-files are faster in prepping and shaping the nails when used in the right manner and can give better results when it comes to precision and detailing. But be sure to gain expertise before using the tool on your or your client’s hands to avoid damaging the natural nails.
 How is a Russian Manicure Different from a Traditional Manicure?
Similar to the traditional manicure, the Russian manicure also focuses on cleaning, shaping, and enhancing the overall appearance of the nails to make them more presentable and healthy. However, there are certain key differences in the procedure and the level of detail involved in the overall work done using the e-file.
1) The primary difference between the two procedures is that the traditional mani involves soaking the hands in warm water to soften the nails and cuticles. Contrary to this, the Russian manicure entirely skips the soaking and in fact, works on dry and dehydrated nail surfaces. This ensures more visibility of the cuticles and the dead skin accumulation on and around the nail bed. The technician can reach every nook and corner to get rid of this debris using an e-file for cleaner and more pristine work. Also, hangnails and dry cracking of the nails can be prevented by skipping water.
2) Another drawback of the ‘wet’ manicure is that the prime focus is on obtaining a polished look but the cuticle work is often minimal. Soaking makes the cuticle fragile and plump and then it is pushed back and trimmed. However, this doesn’t give a healthier look once the skin around the nails dries. On the flip side, the Russian procedure swears by the ‘clean beauty’ aesthetic and pays meticulous attention to doing the cleanest cuticle work possible. It ensures there are no imperfections or missed spots even on the hard-to-reach corners of the nails and the skin surrounding them.
3) The use of tools is also different in the traditional manicures which use handheld cuticle pushers, clippers, nail files, and buffers. The Russian manicure, on the other hand, uses different drill bits attached to the nail file for serving different purposes of cleaning the cuticle skin and buffing or filing the nails.
4) Longevity is another key difference between Russian manis and traditional manis. Where traditional wet or dry manicures may last for a week or so, Russian manicures can easily be maintained for 5 weeks or more because of the pristine detailing in the process involved.
This is How it is Done
Since Russian manicures work on the ‘clean aesthetic’ appearance, there are a few steps to be followed to make the most out of the e-file and achieve the best results.
Procedure
1) Nail Prep and Cuticle Cleaning:
Just like any other manicure, the first step of the Russian manicure is cleaning and prepping the nail. The surface and the surrounding of the nails should be clean and free of any product residue. To get this, remove the old nail polish from the nails and any dead skin, dirt, and debris from underneath the nails and around the edges. Use acetone or nail cleaning pads to remove the oils and dehydrate the nails. Now grab your e-file for closely cleaning the cuticles. Carefully remove the extra skin from cuticles from the surface of the nail bed and under it.
2) Filing and Buffing
Use a nail file or the e-file to shape and file the nails in the desired nail shape. File the nails in the same direction and keep them crisp yet smooth. Again use the e-file to buff the surface of the nail bed to remove any uneven ridges and to smoothen it out. By this time, you should have obtained a neat and polished appearance with healthy-looking nails. This allows placing the polish a little farther ‘under the cuticle’ into the nail bed.
 3) Nail Paint and Art
Start applying your base coat to prepped and dehydrated nails. Once cured under UV or LED lamp, go ahead with applying your favorite nail color in 2-3 coats until you get an opaque finish. If you want a nail art, incorporate in at this step and follow up with a top coat at the end to seal everything together. Make sure you apply thin coats of each product and let it cure before layering the next coat.
4) Finishing Touches
Since the Russian Manicure uses an e-file to clean and work on fragile nails and skin, the nails may get prone to dryness or brittleness. So, always end your mani by applying cuticle oil to the nails and a nourishing hand cream to the surrounding skin. This will help maintain the strength of the nails and the health of the skin around them.
How Long Does Russian Manicure Last For?
Usually the results of Russian manicures last longer than the manual ones, but only if done correctly and by a professional. With all the rough and tough work you do with your nails at your desk or in your kitchen or the garden or garage, you can easily carry your nails for around 4 weeks. Depending on the growth of your nails and personal preferences, you can even pull off your mani for 5 weeks or longer.
What are the Advantages and Disadvantages of Getting a Russian Manicure?
The Advantage of Russian manicures is that the entire focus revolves around prioritizing the health of the natural nails because traditional manis focus more on the appearance and the shaping and designs of the nails. This increases the longevity and durability of the mani and eventually makes it look more presentable and clean without causing harm to the surface of the nail plate or the skin around it.
The biggest concern nail enthusiasts have when getting a Russian manicure is whether it is safe. Using an electronic drill on the fragile areas of your nails and getting your cuticles pushed and cut can sometimes become dangerous, especially if you try to DIY all this or get it done by an amateur. To be safe, you have to be sure you get it done by a professional nail technician who is a master in using e-files. Also, frequent and repetitive removal of the cuticles may sometimes cause harmful, yeasty infections in your nails. Make sure your technician uses properly sterilized tools and drill bits to stay away from bacteria entering your body.
How is it Beneficial and What are the Risks?
Benefits of a Russian Manicure
 1) Lasting Capacity
When working on the nails for the first time, the manicure is carefully done to apply the product far under the cuticles. Also, the surface of the nail bed is prepped in such a way that the adherence to the product is maximum. This makes the manicure last longer without chipping or lifting. Also, when the technician works on refilling the acrylics or hard gel extensions, the layer closest to the natural nails isn’t filed completely and this reduces the chance of peeling the fresh product off the nails due to oils or dehydration.
 2) Nail Health
One of the main benefits is the elimination of soaking the nails in water or acetone. This helps in preventing dehydration of nails and cuticles every time you get your manicure done. Once you are consistent with Russian manicures, you will see a visible difference in your overall nail health with stronger and thicker nail plates, clean cuticles, the least dead skin deposits, and minimum cracks and chipping of the nails. Since Russian manicures prioritize cuticle health, that results in better growth of the nails from the inside out.
3) Economic
No, we are not saying that Russian manicures are inexpensive or easy on the pocket. But yes, since they last longer, you don’t have to get your nails redone after every two weeks. This reduces a lot of time and money spent on getting fresh manis or even touch-ups after every few days and you can pull off the same set for more than 4-5 weeks. It also reduces your exposure to abrasive tools, nail drills, and UV lights.
Risks of doing a Russian Manicure
1) Damage:
If the e-file is not used with the correct speed or pressure, it may result in damaging the natural nails making them thin and weak. This can cause nails to become brittle and break easily and this may take time to resolve as you have to wait for the damaged nails to grow out. The damage is not limited to the nails only; improper use of the e-file may lead to excessive filing of the cuticles and the skin around the nails. This can cause severe damage to the skin which may take a long time to heal.
2) Pain
If the speed or vibration of the e-file is not handled correctly, or if more pressure is applied aggressively, it may cause discomfort, pain, or even cuts during the process. This is more relevant for individuals with sensitive skin and nails and the professional needs to be very careful of these things.
3) Infections
If any of the mishaps occur to the cuticle or the skin barrier around the nails, it may cause more harm than usual to the skin. If the cuticles are over-filed or if the e-file is used incorrectly, the cuts make it easier for bacteria and other harmful germs to get inside. This may result in severe infections which will directly affect the overall health of the nails.
 Wrap-Up
The Russian manicure stands out as a meticulous technique for achieving clean, healthy, and long-lasting nails. Through the careful steps of cuticle softening, removal, filing, buffing, and hydration, this method ensures beautifully groomed nails that can last up to five weeks. Its distinction from traditional manicures lies in its focus on precision and durability. While the Russian manicure offers remarkable benefits, it also comes with certain risks, particularly if not performed by a skilled professional. For those looking to delve into this technique, understanding the process and using the right tools, such as the e-file nail drill, is essential. Whether you’re an enthusiast or a professional, exploring the Russian manicure technique can lead to beautifully resilient nails that are sure to turn heads!
